Posted on February 09 2018
There are reasons for me to pick up the threads with this post – main ones being recycled fibres and the fashion industry being the second largest polluter in the world. It makes me happy to speak about PASHMA – an Indian label through its cashmere range is taking sustainability to another level. I had the opportunity to meet up with its CEO – Mr. Ravindra Kumar at their Gurugram unit where he spoke about their decision of undoing previous collections’ and spinning the Cashmere. “We decided to ‘Regenerate’ our fabric leftovers collected over one decades or more. It has a coarser count and we weave these yarns into Herringbone, Twill, Diamond Weave etc., which sell well. Magically, this specific yarn when knitted with different knit structures, needle craft and printed with contemporary prints look like a part of the knit itself ” he explained.
The brand’s exotic and precious fibres come from far and beyond. For instance, their fine Cashmere is painstakingly procured from a tribe of Buddhist nomads in Ladakh and parts of Mongolia, Silk from India and China, while Linen is from Europe. Carefully textile traditions are blended with state-of-the-art modern day technology. In-house worsted spinning systems imported from Biella, Italy, create superior quality yarn which is woven on primitive looms.
“Last year we started making Tweeds really light and airy with the help of a specialized weaving technique; unlike its iconic traditional Irish, Scottish or British country counterpart. For structural innovation cynthetic lining in the jackets has been done away with. The outer body and the inner shell are almost the same-fused or woven together. Our focus is also on the feel and the texture of the fabric apart from the weave and design for a three dimensional finish to the end product, achieved with a combination of recycled and fresh yarn made of natural fibres only” proudly added Mr. Kumar.
Lately having taken part at the Hongkong Trade Show, the team headed for a showing in the Italian fashion industry. With a global presence in more than 1,200 multi-brand retailers in over 40 countries, 30+ travel retail sales points which include prime airports, renowned international carriers and 15 stand-alone stores in the USA, Japan, Singapore, Macau and India, its USP is ‘responsible innovation’.
So, even if the Waulking songs (Scottish folk songs sung by women in Gaelic while rhythmically beating newly woven tweed to soften it) haven’t been heard from the 1950s, the Generations X,Y,Z is successfully remixing Tweed ever since A/W 2016 catwalks. Its severe appeal brings exalting femininity with Parisian chic for ‘an ethical makeover’.
- Anandi Paliwal